First, this week I'm living/teaching in a new city, Klung Kung. However, the city itself is not nearly as much fun as the name is to say. Yappenatim is closed for one week so I'm teaching at a government high school called SMU. It's I nice change of scenery but I miss the kids at Yappenatim, and after being gone for a week I've realized home much like home Gianyarhas begun to feel.
A large swell came through the last few days, now I thought that I'd ridden some descent sized wave before and that I was decent but these waves were on a completely different level. I estimated that they were around 15 feet and afterwards I talked to some local guys and then checked the report that night. Turns out they were around 4 meters. So being scared out of my mind and pissing my pants I paddled out. I dropped in a bit shallow on the first one I could just to build up a bit of confidence, then on the next one I went all out and dropped in just a tad bit to deep. I hit a chop on the drop in and lost it. For a minute or two I thought that I was never going to resurface (it felt something like hopping into a washing machine and setting it on spin cycle). After about 15 seconds of tumbling and bumping into the reef I finally popped up above the surface with nothing worse than a damaged pride. (After that I took it a bit slower and I was able to get a few waves, some of best I've ever had a chance to ride).
you're right... Klung Kung is very fun to say.
ReplyDeleteglad to hear that all is well with you, i'm liking the updates, keep 'em coming! And remember, you're a lumberjack, you can conquer any wave.